ShelfLife Special Tasting: Spain still hitting the spot
Helen Coburn highlights that Spanish wines are still hitting the spot in a Shelflife special tasting
Print15 October 2013
Inspecting alabarino vines in Galicia
One could say the same thing almost every year about the annual Spanish tasting held by ICEX, the Spanish trade body and 2013 was no different. First, there is so much to taste that this event could easily run over two days. Secondly, the consistent quality of Spanish wine continues to impress, as does the conspicuously low level of faulty or corked wines. Thirdly, there is generally some category that deserves special mention: this year it’s got to be Rioja Reserva. Fourthly, some up and coming areas continue to charge too much for middle range offerings and that’s still true though, possibly, less so than it was. Overall, Ireland is now the 20th largest export market for Spanish wine, with a value of €19.4m in 2012.
This year, the Galicians have been pushing their local speciality, albarino, in Ireland, and demand is rising. It’s a perfect wine by the glass product and is competing strongly with sauvignon blanc in the wine bars of Europe right now.
In Rioja, which produces Spain’s most readily recognised wines, American oak used to be virtually the only wood used for ageing. Well suited to the premium Rioja grape, tempranillo, it gave the wine a distinctive and appealing flavour and texture. About 15 years ago, some makers moved to exclusively French oak but, while producing excellent wines, this tends to yield a style which more closely resembles Bordeaux than traditional Rioja.
Many makers are now moving back to American oak for Crianza styles and where French oak is used for Reserva and Gran Reserva wines, it is being used with more restraint and often mixed with American barrels. Meantime, prices have been held fairly steadily so that, while never a cheap wine, Rioja Reserva is currently tending to over deliver on price for the quality it offers. Price apart, I don’t I’ve think I tasted a poor one this year. There is also a lot of value to be had amongst Crianza wines and varietally labelled entry point tempranillos.
And so to tasting. Prices are approximately retail.
Tempranillo and Viura are the top grapes used for Rioja’s red and white
WHITES
Martin Codax Albarino 2011(Approach Trade €16). Familiar and still good with lots of slightly spicy aromatics and flavours with pleasing acidity.
Condes de Alabarei Albarino 2012 (Celtic Whiskey €15). Refreshing wine with dainty hints of flowers and tropical fruit – lovely aperitif or fish wine.
Deusa Nai Albarino 2012 (Cassidy €17). From Marques de Caceres, this is nicely concentrated, with floral and tropical fruit touches to balance the acidity.
Terro do Lobo 2012 (Celtic Whiskey €15). From another high quality grape, godello, this is interesting stuff, just a little fat, but very flavoursome. Chill well.
Marques de Riscal Rueda Verdejo 2012 (Findlater €13). Crisp, elegant wine, with clean green fruits and decent length. Good with cold meats, vegetables and fish.
Sanz Classico Rueda 2012 (Celtic Whiskey €12). Decent value refresher with lively, green apple fruits.
Lan Blanco 2012 (Distinctive Drinks €13). I was always a fan of old fashioned, oaked white rioja; this is, inevitably, more modern, but very likeable and would go well with pork.
Baigorri Blanco Rioja 2011 (Vinostito €21). Barrel fermented and pure joy for lovers of oaky, white Rioja. Delicious, gently oxidated, yellow fruits with creamy hints. Try with hard cheeses.
MaximoViura La Mancha 2012 (Mackenway €12). The Rioja grape but from La Mancha and just a little cheaper. Green apple and citrus flavours make it perfect for roast chicken and pork.
REDS
Marques de Caceres Rioja Reserva 2008 (Cassidy €22). Caceres has often been accused of over-modernity in its Rioja but, despite being a big fan of American oak Rioja, I don’t really agree. I think that its Reserva, especially, shows how much traditional flavour can be retained, providing French oak is used with care. An elegant wine that delivers on its price.
Beronia Crianza Rioja 2009 (Barry Fitzwilliam €12). Smooth red fruits and a nice bit of age for the category. Very decent value.
Zuazo Gaston Joven Rioja 2011 (Classic Drinks €11). Gets away from that slightly over sweet raspberry thing that sometimes mars unoaked red wine at this price point. Tasty and good value for money.
Vega Rioja Reserva 2008 (Febvre €21). Velvety, elegant rioja, aged in 90% American oak. There’s also a good for its price crianza at EUR*15.
Fortius Reserva Navarra 2005 (Gilbey €17). A classy wine with summer fruit flavours under pinned by darker notes imparted by the addition of cabernet sauvignon to the tempranillo.
Englishman Andrew McCarthy of Castro Martin. His albarino is available from James Nicholson
Herencia del Padri Priorat 2010 (Approach Trade €20). Tasty blend of carinena and garnacha peluda with French varieties. Avoids that loud international character which can mar some high end Priorat – it’s decent, elegant and fairly priced for what it is.
Flores de Callejo Ribera del Duero 2011 (Celtic Whiskey €15). Flashy, modern packaging (there’s a pretty girl on this one) can sometimes mean pretty terrible wine but not here. This is warm and juicy stuff which delivers on its price.
Huno Ribera del Guadiana 2008 (Celtic Whiskey €15). Smooth dark fruits with just a touch of heartiness. Country wine in the best sense; drink with casseroles and grilled meats.
AN/2 2009 (Celtic Whiskey €22). I’ve always liked this Majorcan wine made from traditional varieties – callet, mantonegre and fogoneu – with just a touch of syrah. At a few euros less it would be better value, but its origin does give you a talking point and it’s always enjoyable.
Vina Zorzal Graciano Navarra 2011 (Searson €15). Spicy yet elegant fruit; a crowd pleaser in the right sense.
Cristina Forner of Marques de Caceres
OTHERS
Lustau La Ina Fino Jerez (Mitchell €17). Dry as a bone – you might mistake it for a manzanilla; nutty, almost salty wine, perfect for starters and canapés.
Pasada Baron Manzanilla Jerez (Celtic Whiskey €21). Perfect, classic manzanilla, dry, nutty, almost austere.
Lustau Peninsula Palo Cortado Jerez (Mitchell €29). Slightly more rustic than some palo cortados but it’s warm and flavoursome.
Finca Antigua Moscatel La Mancha 2012 (Nicholson €15 half bottle). Delicious, elegant dessert wine with good balancing acidity. A treat for the upcoming festive season.
Pasada Baron Oloroso Dulce Baron Jerez (Celtic Whiskey €25). Blend of palomino with pedro ximenez grapes; lovely, nicely balanced sweet wine, perfect with fruity puddings and dried fruits.
Molino Real Malaga Moscatel 2005 (Approach Trade €40). Price makes this a treat or gift wine but it would be a great treat for the sherry buff in your life. Fresh, slightly salty character on nose and palate, with soft, subtle fruit flavours and perfect alcohol balance.
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