Shelflife Special Tasting: Chile Seizes the Day
Previously Chile’s fourth largest export market, Ireland is now its fifteenth; but it's not that we're drinking less Chilean wine, everyone else is simply drinking more
Print16 August 2010
What a wonderful thing it is to have a favourable fiscal position! Such is the case, it seems, with Chile, and there’s no doubt that it is beautifully positioned to grow its market share during the present financial doldrums. It’s got the value, the quality and the money to promote. In the UK, Chile has seen an 11% increase in its on-trade sales and, at retail, a rise of 28% in sales of wines over a fiver. Across the British retail sector, Chilean value sales have gone up by around 23% for 2009. It looks likely that it could soon push France back into sixth position in the UK market.
At present, since the demise of the Wine Development Board, up to date figures on Irish market share are hard to come by, but Chile is reckoned to have 21.6% of the off trade here, with Australia having 26.1%. We also know that, having been Chile’s fourth largest export market, we have now dropped to fifteenth; but that’s not because we are drinking less Chilean wine, it’s because everyone else is drinking more of it. In fact, Chile is still growing here and appears to have increased its volume share by 30% during the first quarter of 2009. This shows its strength at entry point. In March 2007 65% of wines purchased in Ireland were less than €10. By March 2009 it was 86% and that figure is believed to have increased since then.
As customers trade down, Chile can only grow more, especially if it continues to offer good quality at each price point. Chile has particular strength in the bar and restaurant house wine category, with wines being consistently clean, fruity and free of faults. At mid price there’s more of a challenge. Before the financial crisis hit, it’s probably fair to say that Chile was poised to develop significantly its market for regional, mid priced wines. That will be harder now but Wines of Chile have not been too downcast and, recently, their Irish consultant Jean Smullen, conducted a special tasting to guide Irish trade members through some of the quality regions in Chile with which they might not be especially familiar.
When looking at maps of Chile, don’t forget that northern areas are warmer and those of the south are generally the cool climate spots. The exceptions are coastal regions of the north, such as Casablanca, where summer heat is modified by sea breezes. Those cool climate regions are becoming trendy among the wine buffs and, not surprisingly, there was scarcely a free seat when Jean Smullen conducted the latest tasting. Here’s what we sampled. Prices are trade per case of 12.
Vina Leyda Sauvignon Blanc Leyda Valley 2009 (Searsons €67.57). Leyda Valley is fairly cool and this was one of the best value wines in the line up. There was good varietal character on the nose for this money and it had tasty, soft gooseberry flavours. Ideal pouring wine for bar or hotel.
Terra Andina Sauvignon Blanc Central Valley 2009 (Gilbey €67.57). Again, great value, this time from a warmer location, which means the grassiness typical of cooler sauvignon is softened out on nose and palate. What you get, though, is a decently mouth-filling style with lots of green apple fruit and a very good finish for the price.
De Martino Chardonnay Limari Valley 2007 (Febvre & Co €91). This was very good stuff and, if only the world would get over its love affair with sauvignon blanc, they would discover that Chile’s chardonnay is really much more interesting and diverse! Limari is a dry but relatively cool area with the limestone soils that chardonnay loves. This was elegant wine with elegant, very slightly creamy aromas and, on the palate, light toastinesss and gently citrus. With a good, well paced finish, this classy wine offered good value for money.
Vina Carmen Reserve Carmenere Colchagua Valley 2008 (Dillon €93.20). Colchagua has a fairly warm, Mediterranean type climate, with some volcanic soils. Quite an opulent wine, yet fresh and clean blackcurrant and plum scents and flavours. Well structured with a decent finish – very enjoyable.
Oveja Negra Maule Valley Cabernet Franc Carmenere 2008 (Classic Drinks €86.65 ex VAT). Cabernet franc is one of my favourite varieties and it’s 70% of this wine. There are softly spiced plum and blackcurrant flavours, and slightly dry tannis with a kick of berries at the finish. From a relatively warm area, alcohol was a little dominant at the finish but it had very good character for this price.
Vina Carmen Casablanca Valley Reserve Pinot Noir 2009 (Dillon €93.20). Good value pinot noir is the big red story from Chile’s cooler regions and here’s an example. This one is not as classic as some and the summer fruit nose shows interesting floral notes which aren’t typical of the variety. It’s more varietally correct on the palate, showing summer fruits with just a hint of Turkish delight – unusual but very enjoyable. This is pinot for fun and it comes at a price most pinot fans will think fair.
Nativa Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo Valley 2007 (Gilbeys €84). Country wine in the best sense from a warmish area – plump, hearty and enjoyable yet with just enough acidity and structure to hold things together. Nicely textured stuff which could go down all too easily – good value.
De Martino Estate Choapa Valley Syrah 2008 (Febvre €88.20). Relatively cool district, with fairly recent vine plantings. Clean earth aromas with classic hints of black olive and plum and this continues to the palate. It’s from young vines and the wines will probably show more depth as they age. Interesting and elegant at a very good price.
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