Shelflife Special Tasting: Summer celebration wines
Helen Coburn looks at light, refreshing wines - that would be perfect for a wedding, or indeed any occassion set on a balmy summer's day, for that matter
Print12 May 2010
The recent downturn has meant that wedding venues have become a lot more positive towards customers who want to bring in their own wines for a function. Holding large quantities of wine in cellar ties up cash and some hotels have decided that it’s easier and more profitable to charge corkage for brought in wines than to stock them themselves. Last summer, off licences and supermarkets reported an increase in large orders of wine for functions and it’s a trend likely to continue this year.
When advising customers about wedding wine quantities, the guideline has been 60% red and 40% white. However, the fashion for sauvignon blanc and pinot grigio seem to have encouraged an increase in white wine preference and, recently, at a wedding in my own family, the red/white break wasn’t too far off fifty fifty. So 55% red and 45% white seems a better bet, and arrangements can always be made for unopened bottles to be returned so that customers can have an extra case or so of each colour held in reserve.
It’s important to stress to customers that, when they bring wine into a venue, they give clear instructions to servers not to open all bottles in advance, but, that after an initial tranche is uncorked, wines are opened only as needed. There have been all too many instances of customers who went to seek out unused wine, only to find every single bottle opened and thus unreturnable. Customers also need to be advised to monitor pouring, especially toward the end of a wedding meal. I recently attended a wedding at which glasses were refilled just before the room was reorganised for dancing and guests were asked to leave the tables. When they returned, it was to find that all their wine had vanished down the hotel sink, resulting in huge waste for the hosts who had paid for it.
When choosing wines for weddings or christenings, many customers like a matched pair for their red and white, either from the same country or the same maker. If they are not choosing champagne, a sparkler from the same country rounds off things nicely. That’s why we’ve grouped the wines into suitable threesomes. All of them would be perfect for summer parties; prices are approximately retail and most suppliers offer a good deal on decently sized orders.
Spain
Faustino VII Blanco 2009 and Faustino VII Tinto 2009 (Gilbeys €10.80 each). Tasty wines with soft fruit; the white would go with starters and white meats, while the red is excellent with lamb. It could be followed up with Faustino Cave Brut sparkler, at around €17.
Australia
Tyrells Old Winery Chardonnay 2008 and Tyrells Old Winery Shiraz 2007 (Barry Fitzwilliam €15). These wines are hugely popular amongst enthusiasts, but less well known to the general wine-drinking consumer. They are always elegant, with the light toast and lemon flavours of the chardonnay being perfect for fish, salads and all white meats. The shiraz is a more restrained style than is often expected from Australia; good with beef, it also works well with lamb, turkey and ham. McGuigan Sparkling Chardonnay (Barry Fitzwilliam €17) is crisp and well balanced and would nicely continue the Australian theme.
Italy
Zenato Lugana 2009 and Zenato Valpolicello Classico 2008 (Searsons €2.50). The Lugana is perfect with sea bass, salmon or vegetarian dishes, as well as first courses. The Valpolicella is full of fresh cherry fruits which make it ideal for lamb, duck, turkey or, again, vegetarian meals. Italian sparkles can round things off perfectly in the form of Bisol Jeio Prosecco (Searsons €18), its crisp apple and apricot flavours making it ideal for a meet and greet aperitif and for toasts.
Chile
Cono Sur Chardonnay 2009 and Cono Sur Pinot Noir 2009 (Findlater €10.50). You could as readily choose the same label’s sauvignon blanc and cabernet but this pair are consistently excellent in this range. The chardonnay has enough body for white meats as well as fish and starters, while the pinot is lovely with turkey and ham.
Cono Sur Sparkling (Findlater €16) has quite firm green apple flavours, with enough zing to be carried to the table for a first course.
New Zealand
Babich Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2009 and Babich Marlborough Pinot Noir 2008 (Ampersand €13). Although it’s a less versatile food white than chardonnay, sauvignon blanc is so popular now that some wedding hosts get in a half case, even where their main white choice is something else. Babich sauvignon is juicy, with tasty lime flavours, ideal for all fish courses and chicken. The pinot is perfect for roast lamb and beef. Hunters Sparkling Miru Miru (Gilbeys €24) is a fine New Zealand bubbly with lots of tasty green apple and light yeasty notes.
France
Ch. Bel Air Perponcher Blanc 2008 and Ch. Bel Air Perponcher Rouge Bordeaux Superior (Febvre €17). Classic selection at a fair price. The white is great with cod or sea bass, while the red is very versatile, its fresh blackcurrant and plum going well with duck, lamb and turkey. Tattinger Champagne Brut Reserve (Febvre €50) is a sound yet glamorous choice, with firm yeasty notes over green apple and fresh apricot flavours. Febvre also offer Henri Grandin Method Traditional (around €23) from the Loire Valley, based on chardonnay and chenin blanc, and decent value for the price.
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