Shelflife Special Tasting California
Californian wines used to abound, priced between €20 and €50. However, prices have now come down considerably, writes Helen Coburn.
Print14 April 2010
How times change. A couple of years ago, Dublin’s California wine tastings were piled high with wines at between €20 and €50. Not any more. This year, at the annual tasting at the Dublin Castle coachhouse, there were fewer dealers and importers than usual and very little wine was priced at more than ?20 a bottle. This left the taster with a mixed impression. First, that the recession had bitten hard, which was hardly news to anyone, and secondly was the realisation, that when pushed hard enough, the trade could actually find quite a lot of Californian wines which people could afford to buy.
Wine is California’s second most important export after high tech products. At the moment, the main buyer of California’s premium wines is Hong Kong, with sales there growing by 41%. Elsewhere exports fell by 15% volume and 10% value in 2009, with EU sales being worst hit. The decline here was 21%. To make matters worse, 2009 was the second biggest vintage in California’s history; at 3.67m tons, the volume of grapes crushed was up a whopping 20% on 2008.
That’s left California with an awful lot of wine to sell and, inevitably, there has been a significant fall in bulk wine prices. That’s been good news for the big brands, who have got their hands on cheaper wine, and often better quality wine, than was available to them a couple of years ago. It’s part of the reason that prices at the Dublin tasting made California seem a much better value propositon than it used to be. Chances are that, on the back of this, sales of Californian wine could increase in Ireland in 2010. Indeed, global wine brokers are already saying there has been a steadying in prices for bulk Californian, along with a rise in demand, during this first quarter.
Here’s what we’ve tasted recently. There’s some decent value available to the consumer, especially those who move up, just a rung or two, from the very bottom of the price ladder. Prices approximately retail.
Whites
Delicato Vineyards Chardonnay 2008 (Ampersand €10). Fresh, simple but well made, and perfect for easy summer drinking.
Gnarly Head Chardonnay 2008 (Ampersand €12). Nicely rounded fruit and decent finish make this good value at the price.
Bonterra Valley Oaks Chardonnay 2008 (Dillon €11.50). Well balanced, quite classy style; again, good value and better than the same label’s sauvignon blanc.
Sonoma Cutter Russian River Chardonnay 2005 (Dillon €25). Lovely, with firm lemon and grapefruit flavours and a bit of ageability too. Good value for what you get.
Parducci Sustainable White 2008 (Febvre €16). Could anything be better than a wine that comes wrapped round in virtue? Not only that, but it’s tasty, too. This off beat blend of viognier with sauvignon blanc, muscat and tocai friulano, may not win the approval of the classicists but it would be the perfect wine for a summer wedding or just a few chicken sandwiches in the garden.
Menage a Trois White 2008 (Findlater €12). When you get past the cutesy pie name, this isn’t bad stuff at all. Another off-the-wall blend, this time of chardonnay, muscat and chenin blanc, its soft fruitiness and slight kick of spice, would appeal of fans of Spanish albarino- and it’s cheaper.
Reds
Cycles Gladiator Pinot Noir 2008 (Bubble Bros €15). Very decent varietal character; inviting stuff with a touch of class and good value.
Gnarly Head Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 (Ampersand €12). Full on, lively stuff. Perfect for parties and barbeques.
Bonterra Zinfandel 2007 (Dillon €17). A lot of Zin is too brambly and alcoholic, but this is clean and elegant while still managing to pack a flavourful punch.
Ironstone Vineyards Petite Syrah (Gleesons €13). Californian petite syrah is actually based on the Bordeaux grape, durif, either on its own or in a durif dominated field blend. This is in lovely berry fruit style- a characterful wine at a good price.
Gallo Dancing Bull Zinfandel 2007 (Cassidy €12.99). This, and the slightly more expensive Gallo Rancho Zabaco, both offer sound value for money, with lots of tasting blackcurrant fruit. Mind you, the Zabaco is 15% alcohol, so it might be wise to have three people for the treat.
Ironstone Vineyards Reserve Cabernet Franc 2007 (Gleeson €20). There are few wines more elegant than a well made cabernet franc, and this one is lovely, with smooth plum fruit and just a hint of peppery greenness. Expensive but a genuine treat.
Sequoia Grove Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (Febvre €50). I don’t suppose many readers are in the market for corporate gifts these days but if you are, here’s a wine you could consider. Classic Napa, fully ripe yet with a touch of green pepper, classic cedarwood notes and smooth blackcurrant- delicious.
Blush
Beringer Stone Cellars Zinfandel Blush 2009 (Febvre €11.99). Lively strawberry flavours; easy to sell.
Menage a Trois Rose 2008 (Findlater €12). This blend of merlot, syrah and gewurztraminer isn’t exactly classic but it creates a pleasant rose with an interesting spicy kick.
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