Shelflife Special Tasting: Drinking Summer Pink

The country's latest wine craze it's undoubtedly not - but that doesn't mean good rosé should be neglected, writes Helen Coburn
21 June 2011
Despite direst predictions, rosé still appears to be a growing category in the UK, although Irish consumers, while mildly positive and drinking a bit more of it, have not adopted it as their latest wine craze. Up to a point, that’s possibly a good thing, for apart from pink Champagne, and some classic rosé areas such as the France’s Loire and Rhone Valleys, rosé is generally an enjoyable rather than a demanding, high end product.
Which is exactly why it shouldn’t be neglected. Good rosé should have nicely knitted berry and strawberry flavours with decent, refreshing acidity. Some is traditionally off dry but there should be some zestiness to balance. In the south of France and Spain, Spanish rosés tend to be a bit broader, with rather succulent fruits and even a touch of spice- but they shouldn’t be heavy and there should still be some zing. France has wonderful rosés in the south and most are made for immediate enjoyment but estates such as Domaine Ott in Bandol, and a number of producers in the Tavel district, take their pink very seriously and here there is generally a slight savoury streak to the wine which makes it an ideal pairing for roasted meats.
The Loire Valley
Moving to cooler climes, the French Loire Valley has fine rosés for earlier drinking, with the easier wines generally based on the grolleau grape, and the best being made from cabernets franc and sauvignon. In Italy, almost every wine maker makes a pink but most is drunk by locals. Wines tend to be of good quality, however, and are generally dry styles with lively cherry and berry fruits. The Abruzzo region has good ones from the montepulciano grape and there are lots of lively Tuscans based on sangiovese.
In classic rosé areas, winemaking is generally by skin contact: that is, keeping red grapes in contact with their juice for only a short time after crushing and then draining off. However, “saingnee”, or bleeding, is also common, and here a portion of juice, being fermented in tank for red wine, is drawn off shortly after the crush. Besides providing a batch of pink juice, this also concentrates the red wine left in the tank. This can be useful if red wine is being made in situations where weather conditions have resulted in dilute grapes. The rosé so produced is thus often a byproduct but where classic grapes are used, the quality can still be good.
Grenache
Rosé wine is actually quite diverse and it’s worth trying different varietals and blends. Grenache is the stalwart of southern France but much of the best quality is from syrah or blends of syrah, grenache and other southerners such as mourvedre. Zinfandel is the California star; the challenge can be finding wines that don’t have too much residual sugar, especially at entry point. A lot of pleasant rosés are now being made from pinot noir, and these are often by saignee, as red pinot producers boost concentration in marginal areas. The selection below shows a variety of styles, and prices are approximately retail.Lawsons Dry Hills Rosé Pinot Noir New Zealand 2007 (Febvre €19). Lovely summer berry flavoured stuff with refreshing zest beneath; this is tasty with cold meats.
Gran Feudo Rosé Navarra 2008 (Ampersand €9). Heartier style that works with a variety of foods; try with grilled chicken or a rib rack.
Torres de Casta Rosé 2010 (Findlater €9.99). From Spain, made with similar varieties to the southern French,
and produced by classic skin contact, this has nicely perfumed red fruit aromas, with a refreshing palate which still has decent weight.
Chateau de Sours Rosé Bordeaux 2008 (Gilbey Gleeson €16). One of the best all round rosés- neither overtly strawberryish nor jarringly savoury. Great with roast white meats and, copes with simply cooked red meats as well.
Domaine des Anges Cotes de Ventoux Rosé 2008 (Karwig €12). Southern French rosé with summer fruits; again, a decent food rosé and good with white meats and grilled salmon.
Domaine des Cedres Cabernet d’Anjou 2009 (Febvre €12). From classic rosé country in the Loire Valley, this refreshing stuff is good with light casseroles, rabbit and chicken.
Fetzer Syrah Rosé California 2009 (Dillon €9). A nice raspberry twist makes this a good aperitif and it works well with cold turkey, pork and salads.
Marques de Riscal Rosado Rioja 2009 (Findlater €10.50). Summer fruits nicely balanced with acidity and alcohol make this another good all rounder; lovely with fish, especially cold salmon.
Antinori Cipresseto Toscana Rosato 2006 (Findlater €10.50). Refreshing yet quite full bodied; very appealing aperitif and lovely with cold chicken or lightly spiced sausage.
Principe di Viana Cabernet Rosado 2009 (Febvre €11). This rosé is sometimes hard to lay hands on but it’s enjoyable when you do. Decent body for a rosé and good with pork and simply cooked lamb.
Ceppiano Rosato di Toscana 2010 (BWG Spar €8). Perfect summer evening party wine with light, fresh berry fruit.
Albali Rosado Tempranillo Valdepenas (Cassidy €8). Decent value, with easy strawberry flavours; good with canapes.
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