Jean Trimbach leads trade tasting
18 September 2012
The house of Trimbach, in Alsace, has been named one of the top ten wine producers in the world. Not surprisingly, then, a large attendance turned up for a recent Dublin tasting of its wines, hosted by importers Gleeson Gilbeys and led by Jean Trimbach himself.
Trimbach trained as an accountant but, on finishing college, joined the wine industry in the United States and Bordeaux, before returning to Alsace. His blend of financial and wine knowledge has proved a winner in managing the Trimbach export business, which has seen significant growth over the last two decades in a region which exports only 25% of its production.
Trimbach’s premium wines are expensive but it has to be said that they are good. Cuvee Frederic Emile 2004 (€43) had a strong attack on the palate, flavours of lime, lemon and peach, and fine underpinning acidity. It’s very drinkable now but will develop further; how much further is difficult to say as it is in a ripe style which some might argue lacks the intensity and length of cooler vintages. Where it really scores is on sheer enjoyability. Riesling Clos St Hune 2004 (€140) had lush aromas of ripe citrus, mineral-like hints and a trace of nuttiness – all of which continued onto the palate. Pinot Gris Selection of Grains Nobles 2000 (€120) is a sublime dessert wine, showing a silky palate of green grape, soft apple and subtle citrus, with great length and concentration.
Pinot Gris Reserve 2008 (€21) was more commercial. With tasty green fruit flavours, it would be good with sushi or foie gras but would seem expensive to many of the drinkers who favour this wine style. Riesling fans, however, are almost always willing to pay for quality and Alsace Riesling 2009 (€16) delivers very well, with floral notes and pleasantly intense citrus flavours which developed nicely in the glass. Pinot Blanc 2008 (€14) had citrus character with very slight toasty
notes and was decent stuff. Riesling Reserve 2006 (€21) had a complex nose of dried citrus, beeswax and petrol-like notes. It’s expensive but enjoyable with a slightly creamy note to the finish.
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